Shooting 05 Speed

The Angel Speed is a refreshing contrast to the luxurious, gadget and featured filled Angel IR3. What the Speed lacks in gee-whiz gadgets, it more than makes up for with pure shooting performance.

 
If you were to glance at a Speed quickly, it doesn't look very different from an Angel IR3 Fly, except that it has a matte finish and conservative milling. The reality is, while the Speed might look like another IR3 with slightly different cosmetics, it's a significantly re-designed machine on the inside, with some true performance advantages that are worth having. Despite the similar body shape that the IR3 and Speed share, there's a greater difference from the IR3 to the Speed than there was from the LCD to the IR3. Some players felt that the IR3 didn't offer that much over the LCD, other than a COPS system (anti-chop) and a 90-degree grip frame.

 
The Speed's improvements, on the other hand, are internal and substantial. Except for the bolt, there's not much else that's interchangeable between the IR3 and the Speed. Gas flow has been increased significantly; the battery is now a 4.8-volt instead of 6 (saving weight), with the internal Low Pressure Regulator moved to the battery (left) side. This frees up the exhaust valve on right side to extend all the way to the front-end cap. Installing a volumizer makes a huge difference in operational pressure on the Speed.

WDP claims that the new ram is 50 percent more efficient; that dwell times are down by 60 percent, bumping up the potential maximum ROF up to 30bps; the internal, Low Pressure Regulator (LPR) uses one third less pressure for operation; and finally, the new bolt is 20 percent more efficient, another reason for the drop in operational pressure.

 
The Sensi paintball detect system is an improvement of the COPS sensor from the IR3. The software is much improved and more predictive. Most of these internal improvements, both to the pneumatics and the Sensi system, will be carried over in one form or another to WDP's upcoming IR3 replacement, the Angel 4. This shows WDP's confidence in the upgrades that have happened in the Speed model.

Many of the frills that the IR3 has, have been removed, with the fancy LCD display replaced with a low-tech LED panel. No more vibrating timer, no more infrared signaling, text messaging, max bps, etc. To me, this is a positive thing - the leaner, the better.

For WDP, this is just in time too. When it comes to electronic markers, the rest of the field is closing in on what was Angel domination in the high-end electronic marker field. Earlier this year, Bob Long's Intimidator markers have become the fastest firing and most feared paintguns on the NXL circuit. Closely on its heels is the highly modified Matrix of NYXtreme (formerly Ground Zero).

Whereas before, the Angel's only real competition was the Autococker, with players choosing between volume (Angel) or accuracy (Cocker), the current generation Timmies and Trixes are providing ROF's which are perceived to be superior to the Angel, plus better accuracy.

And from the Cocker side, the very reliable E-Blade trigger is now here. Retaining the Cocker's legendary accuracy plus with a very competitive 16bps, a Cocker equipped with this electronic trigger is yet another high-level marker that is threatening to reduce the Angel's market share.

WDP's response with the Speed keeps the Angel in the game. The ROF is up, the operating pressure is down, accuracy is improved, and so is efficiency. Much of the distracting and unnecessary extras have been deleted. Also, did I mention that its MSRP is under $995, despite its superior performance to the IR3?

In the box

I picked up the Angel Speed I used for this test from Badlands-Paintball City, a highly regarded Canadian paintball retailer in Toronto, Canada. They are also an Angel service center. Angels are complex machines, so I would highly recommend that you purchase your Speed from a retailer (whether it's a local store or on-line) that can also provide qualified service.

When you get a Speed, besides the marker you also get a 14" Infinity barrel anodized to match (bore diameter is 0.689), a Minireg inline regulator optimized for 350psi or lower output, a macro line with fittings to connect your Minireg to your air system, a battery charger (has to be plugged into your car's cigarette lighter), WDP approved Love Juice marker oil, a barrel condom, a small bag of o-rings and various sundry small items, and what has to be the finest looking manual produced to date for a paintball product.

In order to get the price below $1000, some of the Angel Speed's competition has to delete the barrel, reg and even the battery. Considering the Speed is under $1000, it's great to see a top-end electronic marker arrive with its own barrel, regulator and charger for that price. WDP goes further in providing replacement o-rings, a spare gated feed (introduced in the IR3 and a useful feature to have), and Allen keys.

 
Don't forget that except for the dual threads under the grip to connect your air system and the threads for the in-line regulator, ALL threads are METRIC on Angels. While WDP is kind enough to provide the essential Allen keys, it would be wise to invest in a good quality, metric Allen key set.

A big plus for the Speed is its impressive manual. Heavy gloss cover, with coated paper inside, this is the best-looking paintball manual ever made. Its main sections include operating instructions, covering the external and internal LED menus and an extensive maintenance guide. The diagrams are in full color and are easy to see, three quarter exploded views. The only odd omissions is where exactly you should be lubricating the Speed every 8000 rounds, shooting calibration shots for the Sensi modes, and the installation of the optional volumizer; but that's something we'll cover later.

Regardless it's a fantastic manual. Read it cover to cover before attempting to use your Speed for the first time. As with my previous articles, this won't be a re-hash of the marker's manual, but will provide technical information beyond what's there to assist you in choosing how to set up the Speed. I may, however, repeat several crucial points from the manual, on occasion.

Cosmetics

Normally, I leave cosmetics to the last because for me, it's the least relevant and most subjective factor of a marker. But I want to get it out of the way first, and this will also explain the title of the article. The Angel Speed is currently available in only one finish (a matte, sandblasted surface or as WDP calls it, "Dust") and three colors - black, silver and blue (although the Warped Sportz variant, Speed Demon, will have different colors and milling). A dust blue Speed is sometimes affectionately referred to as a "Smurf" Speed, and this is the color of the marker I tested for this article.

While the black and silver Speeds are anodized in a uniform manner, there have already been complaints that the dust blue Speeds have been anodized inconsistently. One the sample Speed that I'm using, I would say that this is true. The color and brightness of the blue is different from part to part on the marker. Personally, I couldn't care less. I think the dust blue color is the nicest of the three choices, despite the inconsistency of the color.

I've also found that the anodizing is not the toughest finish in the world on this Speed. After having tested it for only a few weeks, the Speed's finish has already been nicked here and there, especially where the anodizing is thin. The threading of the metal used in the grip frame and body can be easy to strip too, so be careful disassembling your Speed. WDP has a reputation for high quality, but personally, I've seen better anodizing jobs and tougher material on other markers, especially at this price level.

The milling is subtle and reminds me of levels on a topographical map. While some find this milling to be boring, I like the understated look. More importantly, it's easy to clean.

That's all I'm going to say about cosmetics. Let's get on to the more important aspects of the Speed.

Your Initial Setup

 
I'll go into detail later on in this article, but if you want to quickly set up your Speed, these may be some of the common problems you might experience. There is nothing wrong with the marker; it's simply a matter of knowing what to do before your first time playing with it. Here are some common problems that you may or may not encounter.

" First Shot Drop Off or FSDO (the first shot after a short or long wait of not firing is well below the fps you set the Speed at)
" Inconsistent velocities
" Ball breakage even in Sensi mode

 
My suggestions to solve the above are (in the same order) -

" Charge the Speed at least TWICE - this should solve FSDO
" Some users have complained that there is a lot of grease in the internals. Taking the Speed apart, cleaning the LPR, exhaust valve and ram, and then greasing it with Love Juice grease seems to solve inconsistent velocities. Also to help with consistency, ensure that the LPR is operating at around 75 to 82psi. Set your dwell time to at least 12 milliseconds, no shorter, for at least the first few cases of paint.

" To avoid ball breakage, make sure you take 10 calibration shots if you're using any of the Sensi modes. Calibration shots consist of taking 10 slow shots, one after another, when you first turn the Speed on, which will allow the Sensi program to work properly. Another factor in ball breakage may be your loader. The Revolution and Ricochet are too slow for sustained fire. The Halo B's force-feed system may be pushing down on the paintballs too much. Try using an Evlution II and setting maximum ROF on the Speed to match the Evlution's max as well (16 to 17bps).

Of all the initial problems, the only one I experienced was minor ball breakage (minor being 2 balls out of 6000 rounds) on my sample Speed. The last case I've used has been perfect, since I started doing calibration shots.
Here are the various pressure ranges you should be looking for with a stock (that is, non-volumized) Speed. The Minireg figure for a Speed with a volumizer will be lower. I'll cover the use of a Speed with its companion volumizer in a later article.

" Your air system's (tank) output pressure going into the Speed's Minireg should be between 400 to 500psi.

 
" Your Minireg's pressure, going into the Speed - around 250psi to 350psi, depending upon the fps you want to achieve. You can take a reading of your Minireg with an Air America Guardian gauge or similar device.

" The Speed's internal Low Pressure Regulator (which controls the cycling of the ram) should be in the high 70's to low 80's psi. You can take a reading of your LPR with a gauge from WDP.

Let's look at the Speed in more detail. 

The Charger

Besides reading the manual, the other thing you absolutely must do before you play with the Speed for the first time is to charge it for a full four hours. Use only the Speed's charger that comes with the marker.

 
Expanding upon the manual, I would suggest that you do TWO full charges of four hours before your first play, as I mentioned earlier. In between the two charges, you may want to fire the marker without paint. By making sure the Speed is fully charged before your first day of play, you'll be able to avoid most First Shot Drop Off (FSDO) problems. The solenoid has some resistance that has to be overcome, and only a properly recharged battery will have enough juice to do this. If it doesn't, then FSDO may be a symptom of that problem.

 
The charger is designed to be plugged into a car's cigarette lighter. This is a bit annoying, as I prefer to charge it up at home, so I purchased a wall adaptor from the Angel dealer I picked up the Speed from. Make sure that you buy the correct adaptor and that the electrical current in your home is compatible with the charger.

Low Pressure Angel

Despite all the high tech hoopla that new Angels always seem to generate, the basic design is well over six years old now and until the Speed was released, Angels have always been mid- to high-pressure paint markers. While I don't buy into the "low pressure is better" thinking, especially having experienced some superb mid-pressure markers (like Palmer markers and older BBT Cockers), having a lower operating pressure does have some advantages.

 
Low-pressure markers can be gentler on paint, leading to less breakage in the breech. The softer cycling can sometimes be easier to on the marker's parts, leading to less wear and tear on the marker. And low pressure sometimes helps with accuracy.

 
The Speed is the first Angel that operates at 350psi or less input pressure from its Minireg, out of the box. This was achieved through a new, two-piece bolt, opening up the air passages from the valve to the breech and the exhaust valve chamber extends all the way to the front of the marker.

 
WDP recommends feeding the Minireg (the Speed's in-line regulator, which also acts as a very ergonomic foregrip) 400psi, which the Minireg then chops down to the above-mentioned operating pressure.

On the Speed for this article, I have an Air America Armageddon 68ci or 45ci, 4500psi bottle, set between 400 to 500psi. The fastest paintball speed allowed at my local fields is 280fps. For that velocity, the Angel Speed I'm using only needs to have a final input pressure from the Minireg of 250psi (reading taken with an Air America Guardian Universal Regulator Tester). If I had a speed limit of 300fps, my Minireg would've been feeding the Speed at around 300psi. For owners of previous Angels, that's a pleasantly low operating pressure.

 
According to the manual, the Minireg needs around 400psi feed to function properly. I've found good results with a range of 400psi to 500psi on my test marker. Nominally, that means you can't use a preset or non-adjustable air system as most of them have a fixed output of around 750 to 850psi (some air systems manufacturers have preset systems that give a low pressure output of 500psi or less, which would be acceptable to use on a Speed). WDP says a fixed, high-pressure system might work as long as the output doesn't exceed 900psi. High velocity may be a problem, and shortening the dwell time may be the only way to compensate for this. Some Speed users who've attempted to use non-adjustable, high-pressure air systems have found they couldn't get the velocity low enough. Others have been OK.

 
Another problem with fixed systems is WDP says you mustn't feed the marker pressure in excess of 850-900psi. Some non-adjustable systems may be in need of maintenance and are really feeding pressures much higher than that. While the Minireg will cut down the pressure of a fixed output system, there's always a chance it could fail and allow the full output pressure of a fixed system into a Speed, leading to serious damage to its solenoid.

 
Other than getting a new air system, if you have only a high pressure fixed system, than you can try adding a Thor or Palmer Stabilizer reg between the fixed system and the Minireg.

 
WDP doesn't like this, but another idea is to replace the Speed's Minireg with an in-line reg that prefers a high-pressure feed, like an Air America Messiah or Vigilante with a low-pressure spring. Both of those regs like a feed of around 750psi, which they can easily cut down to 350psi or below.

My recommendation is to follow WDP's advice, and get a system which can feed 500psi or less. Whether this is an expensive adjustable nitro system, or a less expensive low pressure fixed system is up to you and your budget, but it would be wiser to do this than to risk using a high pressure, fixed system directly into the Minireg.

As mentioned, the high-end adjustable nitro system used for this test is Air America's proven Armageddon system. It's a highly regarded bottle system. For example, Cobra Paintball, makers of one of the most expensive lines of custom Angels and sponsor of the world class team, Dynasty, offers the Armageddon system as an alternative to the Angel AIR system on their option sheet. This is a high flowing, rapid recharging, single regulated system that worked perfectly during the test. With the bottle almost full, I set the Armageddon to a 450psi output.

 
I used both a 68ci and 45ci bottles. Both of them balanced well. I liked the lighter weight of the 45ci bottle, but was able to shoulder the marker better with the 68ci. In either case, it's nice to have a system that gives you a choice. Another advantage of the Armageddon is that I can fill up all my bottles (I have three) at once, and simply switch bottles (either partially full or even under full pressure) instead of having to return to the fill station all the time. Fill station lineups can be a nightmare at large tournaments or events.

 
I don't bother to use a drop forward, as I like to use the bottle as a shoulder stock, which helps improve my accuracy. The Armageddon comes with a dovetail system that attaches to the bottom of the Speed's grip frame. It's the same one that they used on their older Apocalypse system and it's become an industry standard, so there are many compatible dovetails made by other manufacturers for it.

This setup is perfect for me, and also keeps the overall height (marker plus nitro system) to a minimum, while a drop forward can add to that height considerably. The use of a drop forward is a personal decision, but I would urge you to try your marker without one if you are using an air system with its own mounting cradle. It can help with stabilizing your marker (the bottle as shoulder stock), as well as reduce weight and height.
Of course, if you are using a thread-in system, a drop forward is a must. A normal duckbill plus a typical thread-in system will throw the bottle too far back for comfort.

 
The Minireg increases input pressure when you adjust its screw COUNTER-clockwise, and decreases input pressure when adjusted clockwise. This is the reverse of most in-line regs. A really nice aspect of the Minireg is its very ergonomic external housing and the fact that the input is feed from the bottom. This makes it easy to use the Minireg as a foregrip and stabilize the marker.

While the Minireg may not be as technologically advanced or as well designed for high volume/low pressure as the above mentioned regs, the Minireg's excellent ergonomics helps with accuracy in the sense that you can support the Speed very easily with the front hand, taking weight off the trigger hand and its fingers. See the accompanying photos on one good method of holding and supporting the Angel.

 
I was hoping to get a hold of one of WDP's new volumizers that they have created especially for the Angel, but while it arrived in time for the photography, it was too late to test it extensively for this article.

WDP claims that the Speed can be operated to as low as 180psi final input with the addition of the largest of their Speed-specific volumizers (it's sold as a set of three different sizes). This will have to be the subject of a future article, combined with analyzing how well the Minireg performs at such low pressures, in comparison to one of Air America's Messiah regs, which were designed specifically for deep, low pressures.

Breech & Bolt

The breech is very easy to open, as on previous Angels. The exhaust area has a simpler, molded seal, replacing the o-ring used on previous models. Lubing the steel (instead of brass) hammer every 8000 rounds (every four cases) with Love Juice or KC Trouble Free oil (the latter recommended and safely used by The Angel Guy, a respected Angel service center and retailer) is done in the breech.

The bolt is very efficient, contributing to part of the reason why the Speed operates at a significantly lower psi than previous Angels. It is made of low maintenance Delrin. Do NOT oil the bolt - Delrin is self-lubricating.
One thing to remember is that Delrin is a relatively soft material. The breech is NOT sealed from the elements. After only one day of play at my favorite outdoor field, Wasaga Beach, I managed to get sand into the breech. The grains got caught between the bolt and the breech, creating some nasty gouges in the bolt and scratches in the breech. Luckily there doesn't seem to be any major detriment to performance, but this is an area that you should clean between each game, just as you would your barrel.

 
The plastic breech knob can unthread easily, so keep an eye to ensure that this doesn't happen. A dab of Permatex on the threads of the breech rod would be a wise move.

Rate of Fire

The Speed can reach up to 30 windows of opportunity to fire with Sensi mode on, 22 chances to fire with Sensi mode off (more on Sensi modes in the Electronic Menu sections). The Speed is actually capable of achieving those speeds, in the sense that the marker can fully cycle at that rate. Some manufacturers that claim insane rates of fire at over 60bps are really only referring to the chip's ability to cycle that fast. The rest of the marker may not be able to keep up.

 
With the Speed, it's not just a fast board. WDP used several technologies in order to get such fast cycle times.
" Opto trigger (intro'd on late IR3 models)
" Shorter dwell
" Lighter bolt

The Opto trigger is non-mechanical. By blocking a beam of light, the marker is fired. For me, the trigger feel is fantastic, making high ROF very, very easy. I loaned the marker to Impulse, Matrix and previous Angel model owners and all of them said the same thing - the Speed is much easier to get a high ROF, compared to their personal markers. This is very high praise.

 
The shorter dwell that the Speed can operate at allows more shots per second. You can further adjust the dwell time (anywhere from 8 to 20 milliseconds) if you wish to optimize it for your air system.
As mentioned before, the new bolt is made of Delrin, which is a very light material. The lighter the bolt, the faster it can be cycled.

 
Note, however that a sustained 30bps is currently not possible, even if the Speed is capable of firing that fast. The reason - loader technology. Loaders are falling further behind markers such as the Speed. 18 months ago, a Viewloader Revolution with an X-board and a six-arm paddle would've been a hot setup. At 13bps, an X-Board Revolution as well as a Ricochet (which is even slower) are now slowpokes when using a Speed. The exceptions to this are front players who are using the Speed. The slightly lower profile and marginally lighter weight of these older loaders might be an advantage, as front players rarely need sustained, high ROF.

 
The only two loaders that are commonly available worth considering are Viewloader's Evlution II and Odyssey's Halo B. They can "only" fire at a maximum of 17bps and 22bps respectively, but currently, they're the best we have. There's also the Warp Feed hose system, but that requires a loader anyway.

 
I didn't have a chance to test the Halo B with the Speed, but its faster feed rate would've been a great match. I have, however, read several reports that some Halo B's have compatibility problems with Angel IR3's or Speeds. I can neither substantiate nor deny these reports, so I won't elaborate any further since I can't say first hand. Hopefully, by the time I test the WDP volumizer, I'll also be able to run a Halo B on a Speed and give you a first person account.

On the other hand, the next fastest loader, the Evlution II from Viewloader, worked very well during testing of the Speed. Forget about what you may have heard of the original Evlution - an Evultion II with a Y board is a significantly improved product.

Using the Evlution II with Sensi Mode 1 and 2, I experienced two ball breaks out of the first 6000 rounds. After getting that, I was more comfortable with the Speed, and also starting doing calibration shots. I didn't break any paint during the last 2000 rounds for this test. It is possible during peak moments to outrun the Evlution II, but it didn't happen very often.

Since you can fire an entire hopper very quickly, I would recommend getting the clear version. It's really the only way to keep tabs on how many rounds you have left.

 
One both positive and negative aspect of the Evlution II is its polycarbonate shell. It's higher quality and stronger than previous Viewloader shells. The downside is its feed tube is also made from the same, strong & rigid material and it's too large in diameter for the Speed's feed neck. On older Viewloaders, the material was soft enough that you can simply jam the tube into most marker feed necks. Not so this time - I had to sand down the Evlution II's feed tube with a dremel tool in order to make it fit. So be prepared to work on a customized fit (the same will be required on a Halo B as well).

The bottom line is that the Speed is truly one of the fastest cycling markers available today. It's faster than the best loaders out there and it looks like it will be some time before we see loaders that can feed at 30bps. So the Speed will be a viable marker for a a while.

Accuracy

Except for the occasional game here and there, I haven't used pre-Speed Angels very much. The times I did, I found the accuracy wasn't bad, but I still preferred my Cocker back then. Also, older Angels also had a substantial kick or recoil, degrading the stability of the marker.

I was quite impressed with the accuracy of the Speed. The groupings are very tight, and the trajectory seems flatter, a little bit like a Matrix. The Speed's kick is much reduced. The increase in stability of the marker meant that it's easier to hold on a target. Overall, I found the Speed's accuracy was more than acceptable and I don't miss my Autococker.

 
Now that I've tried several, open bolt, electronic markers, I believe it's possible to achieve excellent accuracy with them. With everything else being equal, shooting an open bolt electro, side by side with a Cocker or Palmer, the only final advantage that a Cocker or Palmer has is a slightly flatter trajectory, making snap-shooting every easy.

 
I believe the factors that will help a quality marker shoot accurately are -
" Use tournament quality paint that was stored properly before you opened the case.
" Match the barrel to the paint carefully.
" Have the input air extremely well regulated (in this case, double regulated), to ensure consistent input of pressure, shot after shot.
" Soft recoil, to allow a stable platform.
" Avoid broken paint through an anti-chop system and gentle cycling of the marker.

The last three points, great regulation, soft recoil and avoiding broken paint, have been taken care of by the Speed and the Air America Armageddon system I've attached to it.

For this test, I used several brands of tournament quality paint in good condition. And for a precise barrel match, I used the Smart Parts Freak system.

 
The reason I chose this barrel system for the test is that with a low-pressure marker such as the Speed, I've always felt that low-pressure markers tend to be more finicky about the barrel to paint match than higher-pressure markers. The complete Freak system has tight increments from its smallest to largest bore, which allows for a very precise fit.

During the testing of the Speed, I ended up using mainly the .687, .689 and .691 inserts. I utilized an aluminum back and a 12" or 14" Freak tip. The inserts worked great - as you test your paint (the "blowgun" method), it's amazing what a difference .002 inches makes. While the Freak system is often criticized for having delicate inserts, they can be replaced for a fairly low price. More likely than not, you'll be using the mid-range inserts, and will probably never use the extreme bore sizes, so your inserts will wear down at different rates.

 
Unless you absolutely must have a stainless steel back for looks, there's no functional advantage in getting one. Remember, paint doesn't touch the inside of it as you have an insert installed, so theoretically, there's no wear internally. The aluminum back is lighter and cheaper, so that's the one to go with if you care about function more than form.

 
Remember, since the Speed is an open bolt marker, the ball doesn't have to be held tightly by the bore of the barrel (as on a Cocker). Instead, it's kept in the breech, by double ball detents. You don't have to rely on the barrel to prevent ball roll out. When I first started using the Speed, I chose my Freak inserts to fit the paint exactly. I noticed one of my early ball breaks was in the bore of the insert.

 
During the last case of paint for this test, I chose a different method. I would find the perfect fitting insert for the paint, then went up .002 in diameter. On that last day of testing, the paint seemed to fit perfectly with a .689 insert. However, I went up to the .691 instead. The result - no ball breaks and the marker seemed even more accurate, if anything. Perhaps the .689 insert was still the best for ultimate accuracy and efficiency, but using a bore that was .002 bigger guaranteed (for me, at least) that there was no ball breakage, due to a tight internal fit.

 
I played front and the mid positions while testing, so the 12" and 14" tips were about right. The Freak front is machined beautifully, but I would've liked to test the All American tips (also compatible with the Freak system). All American porting extends over more of the tip, which probably would've made for a quieter marker (the Speed is supposedly more noisy then its predecessors). Also, unlike the fancy, teardrop porting on the Freak fronts, which catch & hold paint, the All American porting is a bit easier to clean.

 
An alternate to an expensive barrel system like the Freak, Longbow or CP's Pro Barrel system (all excellent systems), is to buy individual, fixed barrels. There's nothing wrong with the stock, Infinity barrel that comes with the Speed. It's 0.689 in diameter, so you can fill out a basic collection with a 0.685 or 0.686 (small) and 0.692 or 0.693 (large) barrels. With the big jumps in bore size, you'll have to compromise with the fit, but it's still better than having a single barrel with just one bore size.

Electronic Menu

When you turn the Speed on, it takes a few seconds for it to do a battery check. Make sure you have the Speed activated and gassed up well BEFORE the five-second countdown to a game!

 
You can check a few things with the external buttons (along the spine of the grip) and the rest inside the grip frame. The left cheek of the rubber grip has to be opened, unthreading the three screws. Do this carefully, as it's easy to strip the threads of the grip frame.

External controls include the Sensi test (checking to make sure the Sensi function is working), turning Sensi mode on or off (the off position is the fifth shooting mode), battery status and Maximum Rate of Fire.

Of note for external functions - when doing the Sensi test and dropping a ball into the breech, keep your eyes on the LED display. The LED's that indicate a successful drop are on for a very brief time, so don't even blink, otherwise you won't see it.

Maximum Rate of Fire should be adjusted to the maximum rate your loader can feed your marker. If you have the MROF beyond that, you'll simply increase the risk of chopping, even with one of the Sensi modes activated.
The rest of the functions mentioned are adjusted internally.

The Speed is advertised as having five shooting modes. Those consist of 4 modes with the Sensi Mode activated, with bps up to 30. The fifth mode is the Sensi off, maximum 22bps. Sensi software controls the Piezo sensor that detects the weight of a ball in the breech. This system does NOT detect a ball visually or through beam interruption, so dirt and paint won't affect it in that way, although you still do have to keep the system clean in order to allow the spindle to move smoothly.

 
Strangely, it's not mentioned in the manual to fire five to ten shots first, to calibrate the Sensi mode. I recommend that you do this, as this will allow the system to read the weight of the ball and the speed of the drop.

 
Modes 1 & 3 with Sensi on are designed so it will not chop paint. Mode 1 is optimized for rapid fire in short peaks (similar to what a front or mid player might shoot); Mode 3 is for sustained fire (like what a back player would do).

 
If the sensor (the Piezo sensor mentioned above, with a plastic spindle, the top of which extends into the breech) doesn't detect a ball, the marker will NOT fire. The player has to pull the trigger again, hopefully load a ball at this point, and then the marker will fire.

I've found these modes to be a bit strange at first. Cycling the trigger rapidly and not having any paint fly out the barrel is a bit unsettling. The reason for this is that the Evlution II can feed only 17 rounds per second. The Speed is so easy to fire quickly, it's possible to exceed 17bps at peak moments. So there are many instances where the loader was simply not able to load a ball quickly enough. In addition, I managed to break a ball anyway (although it was only one out of 4000 rounds).

 
Modes 2 & 4 are also Sensi modes. The difference is that if a ball is not detected, the Speed will create a small delay, and then fire, whether or not there is a ball being detected by the sensor. There is a chance of breaking a ball, but this time, the player does not have to pull the trigger again to institute another firing cycle. Mode 2 is best for high peak ROF, while Mode 4 is for sustained fire.

 
I did indeed break one ball in Mode 2, but this was only one out of 4000 rounds. Also, it might've been a barrel break (Freak insert perhaps too tight) rather than one at the bolt or breech, as those areas were clean. Once I did my 10 calibration shots and used a bore insert .002 larger, I was able to shoot a perfect (i.e., no breaks) case. I found these Modes to be easier to use out of the box, as they shoot once for every single trigger pull. Mode 2 is my preferred setting.

 
Mode 5 is with Sensi completely off. Maximum ROF is capped at 22bps. This would be useful if you really don't like using the Sensi feature. It's a bit of shame not to use one of the first four modes, but if you just can't get used to the Sensi, then this is a way of turning it off.

 
Most players who don't have luck with Sensi at first usually have a marker with too much packing grease on the Sensi spindle. It's important to make sure that area is completely clean, so clean out any paint that might've gotten into this area too. Also, don't forget to fire at least five to ten shots to calibrate the system first.

 
Dwell settings - I would recommend that you go no shorter than 12 milliseconds during your first few cases. 12 milliseconds are all three green LED's plus two yellow LED's activated on the grip frame display.

 
In general, a shorter dwell setting (8 to 11 milliseconds) leads to a quieter, more efficient marker, with less recoil. The input pressure may have to be slightly higher for a shorter dwell, but the Speed is a low-pressure marker anyway, so this isn't a big deal.

 
The main reason to go to a longer dwell (13 milliseconds or more) would be to make the marker more tolerant of inconsistent paint. The price is a louder, less efficient marker with noticeable recoil.

A method of determining your ideal dwell pressure after you've put a few cases through the Speed to break it in is this -

" The dwell range available on the Speed is between 8 to 20 milliseconds. Set it in between, at around 12 to 14 milliseconds.
" Achieve your desired fps over a chronograph, by adjust the input pressure on your Minireg.
" Once you have your desired fps, increase the dwell all the way up to 20 milliseconds. Your marker is now inefficient (gas hog) and loud.
" Fire the marker over the chronograph. Note the velocity. It's probably about the same or a bit higher than your initial fps.
" Lower the dwell by one millisecond and then fire over the chronograph.
" Your velocity will either stay the same or drop slightly
" Continue to shorten your dwell and checking fps. At a certain point, your fps will drop BELOW your desired fps. Stop reducing your dwell setting at this point and go up one dwell setting. This is your optimum dwell time.

 
If the dwell time is higher than you'd like, try increasing your input pressure and then retest. A higher input pressure generally means a shorter dwell time.

If I had to choose, I'd sacrifice an ultra low pressure for a shorter dwell time (i.e., I'd set the Minireg to a higher pressure). As mentioned, the Speed is a very low-pressure marker anyway, especially with a volumizer. So going up slightly in pressure to get a quieter, more efficient, and more stable marker is a small price to pay.
Maintenance

Follow WDP's recommendation of oiling your Speed every 8000 rounds, and then greasing the internals every 20,000 rounds.

 
The only oils to use are either Love Juice Oil (you get a small vial with your Speed) or KC Trouble Free oil. The latter is not mentioned in the Speed manual but is recommended by The Angel Guy, a respected retailer and Angel service center.

I've canvassed my dealer as well as a few sources on the Web to find out where exactly the Speed should be lubed every 8000 rounds, because in the Maintenance - General Care & Cleaning section (Page 16) of the Speed manual, it doesn't actually mention this fact. My dealer and several reliable Web sources (see Appendix at the end of this article) say a couple of drops in the hammer, which can be accessed once the Rotabreech is open. One Web source recommends this as well as a couple of drops in the air line leading to the Minireg.

The grease to use every 20,000 rounds is Love Juice Extreme Grease. The Speed manual goes through the disassembly and reassembly of the internals that requiring greasing very well so there is no need to repeat that here. I would strongly recommend that you purchase the specialized tools (as well as the LPR gauge) required to disassemble the Speed without damaging it. Either that, or bring your marker to a qualified Angel service center and have them do it for you instead.

Other Accessories

The essential peripherals we've already covered - a fast, reliable loader such as the Evlution II. Precise paint fit through quality paint and the use of a barrel system such as the Freak. Use a high quality, adjustable air system with a very high flow rate such as the Air America Armageddon system.
Besides that equipment plus correct setup, the beauty of the Speed is it is tournament ready and doesn't require much in the way of upgrades. Adding useless accessories to a Speed, which is a top-level marker stripped down to its bare essentials, is contradictory.

 
About the only other thing I would add would be the large Speed volumizer from WDP. These new volumizers designed specifically for the Speed, with the largest one in the three-volumizer set being much larger in size than volumizers previously available for the IR3 or LED.

 
The new Speed volumizers also have a shorter thread distance. Older volumizers may actually thread too far into the Speed body. I'll write an article once I have time to properly test the largest WDP volumizer, which you see pictured on the Speed for this article. I only had time to shoot with it for one day, but I can tell you that I had to reduce the input pressure significantly in order to keep it at the same desired fps that I was shooting at, when I didn't have the volumizer. Obviously, it was doing what it was meant to do, and I'll write more once I have additional details.